Ordering from Newegg

#16 convict

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Posted 17 September 2008 - 08:59 PM

Well i ordered a video card Amazon tru seller "Buynow Inc"...paid no vat or duty...i only paid shipping & insurance from my skybox

I'm looking to get a good 600W PSU, can you call recommend something?

Will order it online as the local choices are crap, and a Tt costs an arm and a leg

#17 Lich King

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Posted 18 September 2008 - 06:12 AM

convict, on Sep 17 2008, 08:59 PM, said:

Well I was going to tell you look for a Cooler Master iGreen 600W but they finally stopped production of that line of psu. The iGreen was one of the few that uses double forward circuit switching, for us that means very efficient, and very long life. Now I had contacted Cooler Master and asked them why they decided to stop the iGreen series and according to them it was "too expensive" for the consumer to buy and they replaced it with the Real Power Pro series; They are big liars because it cost me 70US for the iGreen 600W and then when I had to buy the Real Power Pro 650W that was 120US so they are liars. What really happen was they didn't want to push the double forward circuit switching on the iGreen anymore most likely because there were losing sales being one of the only companies to make long lasting power supplies, also it most likely did cost them a little more to produce it but the fact remains that even though it is cheaper to build the Real Power Pro series they sell it so damn expensive. Let me give you an idea of what I mean by long lasting. A typical psu has an MTBF of 100,000 hours at some bogus temp like 25C, the Cooler Master iGreen psu has an MTBF of 400,000 hours at the same bogus temp 25C. So imagine you selling people power supplies that last that long, nobody will ever need to replace it when it lasts so damn long, so from an economic point of view they were sinking their business by selling great products. Oh yea and if you read reviews for the iGreen the metal body of it is the shiniest baddest looking psu you ever see, lol, I could see my reflection on mine, it like a mirror.

Best advice if you want a good 600W psu is to buy the SeaSonic S12 Energy Plus SS-550HT 550W. Sure its only 550W but people often have misconceptions about psu and end up buying bigger than they need. A typical PC with modern parts will use about 200W to 300W peak with single gfx card and + about 100W to 150W for extra gfx card depending on model. Once you buy a good psu like this one that has active power factor correction (APFC) to 0.99 then rest assured you can count the watts without using complex numbers because you only need to add up the real power and could care less about the imaginary power. Best advice is to count up the wattage of ur parts or post them here and I could try to help with a reasonable estimate but I could tell you straight off that this seasonic 500W is one of the best engineered power supplies you can get. Also I don't recommend modular, even though they look nice, they just add an extra junction point for resistive heating, you could do research on it, most people will tell you to stay away from modular if you are serious about stability. Best of all it is a great price for a psu that has double forward switching, dual mag amps and 88% efficiency, I can't find another psu that could beat that for the price. I don't have the time to look and compare more but now you should have a good idea of what features to look for so if you can't find that one to buy get one similar. Good Luck.

#18 sweetsam

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Posted 19 September 2008 - 08:04 AM

convict, on Sep 17 2008, 08:59 PM, said:

U lucky because i paid vat my last 2 video card

#19 convict

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Posted 20 September 2008 - 01:47 AM

Thanks Lich King for your response

My system is currently:
ASUS M3N-HD/HDMI mobo
2 x 2GB markvision 800Mhz RAM
Athlon 64 X2 5200 2.7Ghz CPU - the 45W model - stock CPU cooling fan
2 SATA HDD, 250gb Excelstore and 320gb Seagate
Lite-ON DVDRW DL burner
Geforce 8800GT GPU
Thermaltake 120mm fans x 2 and one 80mm
On board sound for now, have plans for an Asus Xonar by next year

Currently i have a cheap ass Omega "500W" PSU i bought in supertech...to hold out for the hour as i needed a PSU

I like to run some games now and then

I have no idea what type of PSU to look for, someone was telling me make sure the Amperage output on the 12V rails is good.

Is more than one 12V rail better than one 12V rail supplying let's say 60A?

I'm looking to order it soon, so any help would be appreciated.

#20 Lich King

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Posted 20 September 2008 - 06:13 AM

convict, on Sep 20 2008, 01:47 AM, said:

Finally somebody I know with an Excelstore hdd, do you mind getting a benchmark on those hdd for me? I am looking to buy a hdd but I really want the samsung F1 series, however even online retailers that have "in stock" cancel my order and say out of stock, lol so I am looking at alternatives right now. Just run HD Tune and start the benchmark, it will take a few mins, then post the results and temps please. Also do the seagate too

. I check supatek and them has WD 320GB but I have to see the full model number on that drive because I want the newer single platter edition.

About the psu rails, that is just marketting bullshit so pay little attention to that. Nearly all so called multi rail psu use the term loosely to mean multiple wires from the same source so how could that be multi rail? They came up with that word to pass the specs because you can't pass more than a certain amount of Amps on any single line (I think 20A is max) so what they do is take the full output and divide it across different wires. I would say a single rail is better and most likely that's what you will get if you buy a "multi rail" anyway. The good psu will have overload protection on each rail to prevent it from passing too much current on any single line. Also a good psu will have the pci-e power cables on separate "rails" by default, without stating it explicitly as a feature. So you might see things like rail1= 19A max, rail2= 19A max, rail3= 14A max; All that means is you have 52A in total and it does not mean the last rail is limited to 14A either, you could get 19A from it as long as the total adds up to less than the max 52A.

So when you look at a gfx card and it tells you to get a psu with 26A on the 12V line, it does not mean you have to buy a 1000W psu to get it, lol, because they are referring to the total and not per "rail". The gfx card will never use that much to start with because that is 312W which is enough to run the entire PC, and that is what they want, to ensure ur entire pc can run when you install the card.

There are few power supplies that are true multi rail drives which are usualy high powered ones that basically use 2 complete power supplies inside the chassis to obtain the power requirements. They do this to reduce the size of wires and to work around other constraints. Usually the data sheet will tell you.

#21 convict

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Posted 20 September 2008 - 02:04 PM

Well i ordered a Cooler Master Real Power Pro 750W :unsure:

HD Tune: ExcelStor Technology J92 Benchmark

Transfer Rate Minimum : 20.2 MB/sec
Transfer Rate Maximum : 82.9 MB/sec
Transfer Rate Average : 57.4 MB/sec
Access Time : 20.9 ms
Burst Rate : 138.6 MB/sec
CPU Usage : 75.0%

Temp: 36 degrees celcius

HD Tune: ST3320620AS Benchmark

Transfer Rate Minimum : 38.4 MB/sec
Transfer Rate Maximum : 64.7 MB/sec
Transfer Rate Average : 58.4 MB/sec
Access Time : 13.9 ms
Burst Rate : 104.2 MB/sec
CPU Usage : 72.7%

Temp: 36 degrees celcius

Hope that's the info you wanted